Ain't no Thrillah in Manila

I tried, I really tried to make something of this city. Despite every person's warning that Manila is nothing to see (including the friends who live here), that it is terribly polluted, ugly, and a poster child for touting the value of zoning, today I ventured into the main part of the city hoping to find some pearl. Well, even Pollyanna would have a tough time with this one.

A few remnants of Spanish edifices is about all that seemed inviting -- and all of these have signs out front that say something like (this one is for the Manila Cathedral): "Built in 1581, damaged by typhoon 1582, destroyed by fire in 1583, rebuilt in 1592, partially destroyed by earthquake in 1600, rebuilt in 1614, destroyed by earthquake in 1645, rebuilt out of stone (they started to catch on here) 1654-71, destroyed by earthquake in 1863, rebuilt (this is what you call true faith)1870-79, destroyed in the Battle of Manila, 1945, rebuilt 1954-58." The Battle of Manila features prominently in all of these signs -- just as you regain optimism, yes, it made it more than 20 years without being destroyed! along comes that fatal blow of the Battle of Manila. I confess I don't know what the Battle of Manila was, but have this vague feeling of responsibility.

Shame is a predominant feeling when smacked in the face with third world poverty. I can't imagine that I could write anything new or pithy about this, but while riding in my air-conditioned taxi, past these shantytowns more decrepit than I could ever have envisioned, I felt shame that I ever worried about anything, anything, in my very cushy life. And the obscenity of Imelda Marcos' 2,000 pairs of shoes and all that represents screams at you.

My public policy training kicked into gear and quickly become overwhelmed by the extraordinary task of addressing the poverty and pollution in this very Catholic nation. I find myself in awe of those who undertake this enormous, complicated mission. Every time I had a thought resembling a solution, "well first you'd need to ...", it would get interrupted by, "oh, but you can't do that unless you do this..." Why anyone would want to be head of this country -- other than desires for personal gain -- is beyond me.

But govern it they want to. As many of you know, there has been a recent change (how's that for a euphemism?) in government here. In fact, with the hairy business going on here no one even asks me about our own recently questioned change of government. My friend Chantale, who came to work here for the Asian Development Bank, lives very close to the site of People Power -- the place where the thousands gathered in 1986 and as recently as January 2001 to let their will be known. She took her video camera with her as she walked through the throngs. It was an amazing sight (I'm going to try to give you a link here to her video). I visited the site yesterday (pictures below), but did not last long in the heat and air pollution, and the begging children weakened me as well. What I have learned from listening and reading is that this is an upper middle class movement, and that --regardless of what he did -- the poor regard ousted President Estrada as their champion. Sort of a Marion Barry of the Philippines.

Picture these overpasses filled to the brim with people. That is what happened during People Power 1 & 2. In People Power 2, people were mobilized on their cell phones with text messages, a common way of communication in Manila.

This is the EDSA Shrine, to mark the spot where People Power I took place (1986 --to oust Marcos). It is also the place where People Power 2 just happened.

So this is my trip thus far. I'm not sure what will wilt me more, the heat or the hopelessness. Either way I am humbled.