Wat's in a Name?

I realize that I've been throwing around the term "wat" in both my travelogues and on the calendar without explaining that it means temple. In Southeast Asia, especially in Thailand, these Buddhist temples are everywhere, filled with Buddhas. Inside is the main Buddha, who might be sitting, standing, or reclining and he is often surrounded by lesser Buddhas. There are Buddhas in little niches, Buddhas all over the walls, Buddha murals, Buddhas in a row, Buddhas, Buddhas, Buddhas. If you ever wanted to coin a new phrase to mean an abundance of things and were tired of saying "all the tea in China," try saying "all the Buddhas in Thailand."

And yet, in each Thai town (and also in Laos), I go wat wandering as if it is a new experience. Oftentimes they aren't very different from the last one, but every now and then you stumble upon one that has marvelous architecture or exquisite carving or lovely gold bas-relief or interesting murals. Or you can have an encounter with a monk that is memorable.

The following wat pictures are from Ayuthaya, Thailand's ancient captial, about an hour north of Bangkok. This fabulous temple was one of my favorites. I had a wonderful time riding around on a bicycle and exploring these ruins, despite the miserable heat.

To dress the Buddhas is common. And it doesn't matter how big they are or how high up they are located, somebody can always get a gold robe wrapped around them.

I was really enjoying this glorious reclining Buddha in a far off corner of Ayuthaya until a man appeared out of nowhere telling me that he really liked Bill Clinton. As I was ready to have an interesting political discussion, he reveals that the reason why was because of Clinton's liaison with Monica Lewinsky! Except he used more graphic language, so I quickly hopped back on my bike and got out of there.

This picture shows the older ruins contrasted with a relatively "newer" temple. Also, if you look closely you can see some elephants in the distance.

I also like hanging around wats because you can met monks who almost always want to practice their English. In fact, in Chiang Mai, Thailand, one wat hosts a "Monk Chat" three times a week. You show up (appropriately dressed, of course) and just chat with a monk or two about Buddhism, your country, or whatever strikes either of you. I kept most of the completely inappropriate questions to myself, but I did let one or two escape. Monks are not allowed to be touched by women. This intrigues me and led to the following inquires: "What if a monk's life was in danger and only a woman doctor was available, would she be allowed to touch him?" (Yes.) "Can your mother hug you?" (No!)

Once I wandered into a wat where two young monks were working on a school assignment to design a questionnaire and requested my assistance with the English. I was happy to oblige and lucky for them the help came with a bonus since I have some experience designing questionnaires and in public policy. I was rewarded with an icy cold soy milk while we worked. I love these moments and they confirm that I want to teach.

At first, I didn't understand that there are many "monks" who aren't really monks. Boys go to a wat to enroll in school and are considered "novices." Although they wear the robes and the shaved head, these novices don't necessarily become monks. This explains the monks I've seen doing odd, unmonklike activity -- smoking, talking on a cell phone, working at a computer terminal, listening to a portable CD player, taking pictures while sightseeing, eating ice cream, and -- I'd swear I'm not imagining this -- flirting!

I chose to visit Thailand primarily to see the temples, enjoy the beaches, and savor the food. And although as time went on the urgency to see a wat waned, I never tired of it when I did.